If you have ever seen someone surf a 30 foot wave…

You will probably ask yourself the same question I did.

“How did you do that?”

How does a person get to the point where they are confident enough to try that?

It is terrifying to watch.

What makes it so terrifying is our human ability to picture ourselves in the same position.

Of course when we insert us into the scene we are picturing a person who has likely never surfed a 30 foot wave.

When the surfer drags her board out of the ocean I had to ask…

Our conversation:

Me: that was incredible! When did you get to the point where you one day said ok…I am ready for a 30 footer tomorrow?

Surfer: I never had to ask myself that, it just naturally happened.

Me: So… one day you casually just woke up, grabbed the board and said today is the day?

Surfer: Not really… even the day I did it I did not make a conscious decision to try it… I just did it.

Me: I don’t think I could ever just do something that dangerous with out preparing myself. You are brave.

Surfer: Not really. I have been practicing so long that this is just what I do. Everything I do prepares you for everything we do. You could have done the 30 foot wave a year before you actually did it… but the wave was not there then. Or at least, you were not out here at the right time to see it. Now we see them all the time so we ride them all the time. It’s just what you do now.

Me: …we? me? I do not surf.

Surfer: You do now…

It was a dream.

One of those dreams where you realize you are in a dream at the very end.
Right before you wake up.

I think sleeping me was right.

If we keep taking small actions and learn from each, we are constantly preparing ourselves for the next thing.

Small actions broken down.

One wave at a time.

Repeated and perfected in our way.

Then finally, when our muscle memory tells our real memory we can do more..
We do.

Wave after wave.

Until the size of the wave is no longer relevant.

To try another wave takes grit.

Grit is mostly deciding to keep taking action.

Action is the enemy of fear.


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